N Peal is certainly short enough but fuller sleeves add unnecessary bulk

N Peal is certainly short enough, but fuller sleeves add unnecessary bulk. The Brora has a prettier neckline and a nice, snug fit, but a wider rib and generally more rustic quality make it unsuitable for evening wear The M&S, finally, was never intended to be cropped. All felt deliciously soft and luxurious: not surprising since all sourced their cashmere yarn from Chinese Mongolia (although not all were spun in Scotland). So, I broadened my scope a bit this week and also called in twin-sets by N Peal (total cost pounds 330) and Brora (pounds 248). With the addition of a crew neck, the totals were pounds 338 and pounds 198 respectively.
It’s a more than academic question since a little cropped twin-set, while a wardrobe staple, can be surprisingly hard to find. It takes 24 goats to make one coat and 40 different production processes to turn their fur into knitwear. They’ve tried to bring the goats to Scotland, but the milder weather means they don’t grow their woolly vests.

In other words, there is a proper reason why cashmere is so mind-blowingly expensive. But the Mongolian goats don’t entirely explain why a grey cashmere cardi by TSE (the “t” is silent) costs pounds 199 and one by Marks and Spencer weighs in at pounds 99. (To contextualise: a “designer” cashmere cardi by Clements and Ribeiro will set you back by pounds 320, so TSE aren’t doing too badly). “I’ve tried to take the personal service into the mail order so if there’s a query on sizing or fabrics, or colours, I’ll still be on the end of the telephone.”For a catalogue or an appointment call Margaret Ann Miles on 01985 840520.. Far away in the fearsome wastes of the Mongolian steppes, goats make it their business to grow the soft undercoat that insulates them against the bitter cold. Once every spring, the undercoat is combed out and shipped to Scotland, where it is washed in the soft waters of the Tweed and the Teviot and becomes cashmere.

She used a plus-size model in it but the response was negative, which is why the newly released catalogue features a size 12 model The garments in the catalogue are superb. Black basques (sadly only up to a D cup – because of the support needed, you generally don’t get basques above an E cup) with exquisite lace, none of that scratchy rubbish Cami tops, French knickers, teddies… all in gorgeous silk with proper, posh, lacy trim, high-quality polysatin and good old cotton.As well as the Margaret Ann own label, there are designs by a few, select others. Sizes will range from six to 30, with the bespoke option (which will cost extra because a pattern needs to be cut) available on some garments if the standard sizes don’t fit. “I had a terrible stammer as a child and I know what it’s like to have a problem And so it was with the business. It was the people with problems, either through size or post-surgical, that I wanted to provide for.” Being well endowed herself, she knew the difficulties women had finding pretty, proper-fitting bras.To complement the appointment service, Margaret Ann launched a mail- order catalogue last October. I wanted to cater to the niche that wasn’t catered for, especially not in 1989 – the very big-busted ladies,” she explains.While a teacher, Margaret Ann spent a lot of time with the less able children.

“I had a very academic background and I wanted to go into fashion at an early age but wasn’t allowed to. I was given the choice of being a nurse, a teacher or going into the armed services.” She became a teacher, got married at 22 and moved to Wiltshire Nine years ago, she decided to set up the business “I wasn’t trying to compete with the big stores. She can get pockets fitted into certain types of “normal” bras and swimsuits so that the prosthesis can fit into it. That way a woman can have more choice, and carry on wearing her favourite bathing costume or bra. There is no pressure to buy and there is no one else there, save for the two of you. This privacy and discretion is especially important for the post- mastectomy women who form part of her clientele. Margaret Ann is trained not only in bra fitting, but also mastectomy fitting.

You go in, have a cup of tea, talk, then go to what she calls her “glory hole”, select and try on. “I like to give new clients not less than an hour and a half,” she explains. Every size she can get a bra, basque, swimsuit or whatever in is kept in stock, maybe not in every colour, but she can get it, ringing the manufacturer or agent direct. Despite mankind being able to construct bridges spanning large expanses of water, somehow bras in anything over an E cup are still considered “specialist”.